Having checked out the luxury Argentinian buses on the internet, I was quite looking forward to my journey to Paraguay.
When I arrived at the bus station, half an hour before departure as requested, I headed straight for platforms 63-75 from where I was supposed to get my bus - only my bus was nowhere to be seen. I managed to spot some other people who looked like tourists who reassured me that their bus was due to depart in three minutes and it still hadn't arrived. However, when it reached 30 minutes after the departure time I was starting to panic a little. This must have been evident as a kind Paraguayan girl came to tell me that the bus was delayed due to traffic. Shortly afterwards the bus arrived and, after waiting to check that my luggage was loaded on board, I made my way to my 'cama' seat. Oh, what a seat that was.... a single seat (so I didn't have to sit next to anyone) the seat was softer than a mattress and reclined to almost horizontal. It was as wide as a first class aeroplane seat, and even had a little foot/leg rest. Opening my little blanket and pillow package, I made myself comfortable....then they decided to turn on the television. In spite of the fact that each seat had it's own headphone socket for listening to the TV independently, the decided to blare out the dodgy Argentinian/Paraguayan pop as loud as the speakers could manage. My iPod saved the day, although I had to turn the volume up to maximum to avoid my songs sounding like a mash up with the pop.
After we had been travelling for about an hour, the second driver walked up the aisle asking if people wanted something. Unfortunately, due to my limited Spanish skills, I couldn't understand what it was he was offering. Eventually, having managed to work out, through gesters, that he was offering a drink, I responded 'si' .... and five minutes later had a glass of whisky in my hand. Having expected water, I found this quite random, but fortunately the whisky was rather nice. After a rather strange dinner, which included something that looked slightly like a slice of swiss roll with savoury filling (even after tasting it I couldn´t work out if it was supposed to be sweet or savoury) and jelly, we were offered a glass of champagne (I understood what he was saying this time). The champagne even came in a hard plastic champagne glass, not a cheap plastic cup....National Express could learn a lot from the Argentinians!
Finally the music was turned off and I settled down to sleep, only awaking at 6.30 when we pulled into a bus station. I wasn't entirely sure of the purpose of this stop, but a few people got off and on again. At about this point I started to worry that I hadn't asked the bus driver to stop at immigration (as advised in the guidebook) so started searching through my phrasebook for some suitable words to ensure that I didn't end up in Asuncion without the correct stamps in my passport. At about 9.00 to bus came to a halt, and when we were offered breakfast, I used this chance to try to ask the driver if we were stopping at immigration. He replied in very fast Spanish so I just had to hope that I'd got my point across.... three hours later, the bus finally started moving again, and the next time we stopped was at immigration...at which point I breathed a huge sigh of relief.
Going through a land border crossing without knowing the language is always an interesting experience and this was no different, particularly when the Paraguayan immigration officer kept hold of my passport and waved goodbye to me! Fortunately, my passport was eventually returned via my bus driver, and we took the last stretch of the journey to Asuncion.
Crossing the River Paraguay, with the view over Asuncion was spectacular. Unfortunately I couldn't take a photo as my camera was buried deep in my bag and my memory cards were stashed in my money belt. We arrived into Asuncion bus station at 3.00pm (only three hours late). I managed to find the phone booths and, on my third try, got through to Rafael from Original Volunteers who was coming to pick me up. Rafael arrived with Bryony, who I'd already been talking to on facebook, and she chatted nineteen to the dozen, all the way back to the volunteer house.
More on that later...
Thursday 28 April 2011
Wednesday 27 April 2011
The rest of Buenos Aires
Before I move on to telling you about Paraguay, there are a few other bits and pieces that I need to mention from Buenos Aires.
On Friday I went with Jeroen (from Holland) and Isabella (from Brazil) to Recoleta cemetary and market. A walk around the cemetary was strange. The ornate tombs, many with coffins on clear view; old crumbling tombs, next to shiny modern ones; and the crowd arouns Evita's tomb. However, the most bizarre thing was the accent of the woman who sold us our maps of the cemetery. This woman had the most British accent I have ever heard - more English than any English person I've ever spoken to. We tried to keep her chatting, just for the novelty or hearing her!
With a Brazilian and a Dutchman, the conversation could have been interesting. Fortunately they both spoke Spanish, and Jeroen spoke English, so was able to act as translator. I have been picking up odd bits of Spanish, but will hopefully learn more now that I am in Paraguay. Isabella told me how in Brazil, Elizabeth is pronounced Elizabetch, and she should therefore call me 'Betch'. I explained that this sounded a little bit too much like 'bitch' and, much to Isabella's horror, Jeroen translated what this meant!
After heading to Retiro to buy my bus ticket on Saturday morning, Nanna (from Denmark) and I headed for a mooch about Palermo. Here you could be in any city in Europe with the funky shops, and sidewalk cafes... a lovely way to spend a sunny Saturday.
I forgot to mention in my last update, that in La Boca, following the visit to Caminito, we headed around the corner to Fundacion PROA to see and exhibition by Louise Bourgeois. Rather than trying to explain what it was about, you can click on the link if you are interested. This highly modern gallery was a stark contrast to the surrounding Barrio.
After a final lunch in Plaza Dorrego (a steak sandwich of course) I headed to Retiro to catch my bus to Paraguay.... more on that another day....
Tango and some other sights
Well, Argentina is the land of tango and Buenos Aires is where it all happens.
In spite of this, I was in BA a full two days before I actually saw any...
Walking through the main shopping area, I came across a couple dancing tango in the street. They were dancing 'perfomance' tango, designed specifically for spectators, so there were lots of kicks, flicks and lifts - highly important as fans of Strictly Come Dancing will know!
That evening, I had my first tango lesson at the hostel. Far from learning the steps to replicate what I had seen earlier in the day, I learnt to walk and the importance of feeling the energy of your partner, emanating from their core. This is about as exciting as it gets for beginners, future professionals can spend as much as three months learning to walk when they start out. Following the lesson we went to the local La Maldita Milonga at 571 Peru. After an hour long class (and more walking) with a selection of different partners, the Milonga started. This is the traditional Argentinian way to dance tango, where couples come to dance together in a much more subtle way than the perfomance tango. It's much more real and just as fascinating to watch. One of the best things about this Milonga is the live tango band, Orquesta Tipica El Afronte, made up of a group of young musicians.
After some more performance tango during dinner on Thursday, the next tango experience was another Milonga at La Viruta in Palermo. Not only were there experienced tango dancers at this Milonga, but also experts in Rock & Roll and Salsa - fabulous to watch. If only I knew more steps and had the confidence to join in. Being here made me think of what an old fashioned dance hall would have been like, lots of people coming along to socialise, dance and have a drink, it's a shame we don't have anything like this in England now. Some of us left at 3.30 to go home (which was considered early) while others went on to a local club.
On Sunday morning I headed to La Boca with someone I had made contact with through Couchsurfing. La Boca is one of the poorer neighbourhoods and it is generally not advised for tourists to go alone. The person I went with was only really happy to wander around Caminito which is, unfortunately, very touristy. I did, however, get to see the brightly coloured houses, painted using the paints that were used to preserve the hulls of ships. Here, there was more tango put on especially for the tourists and, although it is still incredible to watch, I realised that I actually prefer the type of tango that I have seen at Milongas as it is more real, and has more feeling. I have gone from thinking that tango was an incredibly sexy dance (which it can be, if done as a performance) to realising that it is more a dance of companionship, danced for pure enjoyment.
In contrast to the showy dance in La Boca, that afternoon I headed to the traditional tango area of San Telmo, in the even more traditional location of Plaza Dorrego. On Sundays, the whole area turns into a huge market, and right in the centre, I stumbled upon what seemed to be a cross between a tango lesson and a Milonga. The people dancing were obviously tourists, but had learnt a selection of actual steps, so they could replicate some of the more experienced dancers. Feeling very jealous that I'd missed out on this more intensive tango class, I grabbed a leaflet and vowed to come back to Buenos Aires one day....
In spite of this, I was in BA a full two days before I actually saw any...
Walking through the main shopping area, I came across a couple dancing tango in the street. They were dancing 'perfomance' tango, designed specifically for spectators, so there were lots of kicks, flicks and lifts - highly important as fans of Strictly Come Dancing will know!
That evening, I had my first tango lesson at the hostel. Far from learning the steps to replicate what I had seen earlier in the day, I learnt to walk and the importance of feeling the energy of your partner, emanating from their core. This is about as exciting as it gets for beginners, future professionals can spend as much as three months learning to walk when they start out. Following the lesson we went to the local La Maldita Milonga at 571 Peru. After an hour long class (and more walking) with a selection of different partners, the Milonga started. This is the traditional Argentinian way to dance tango, where couples come to dance together in a much more subtle way than the perfomance tango. It's much more real and just as fascinating to watch. One of the best things about this Milonga is the live tango band, Orquesta Tipica El Afronte, made up of a group of young musicians.
After some more performance tango during dinner on Thursday, the next tango experience was another Milonga at La Viruta in Palermo. Not only were there experienced tango dancers at this Milonga, but also experts in Rock & Roll and Salsa - fabulous to watch. If only I knew more steps and had the confidence to join in. Being here made me think of what an old fashioned dance hall would have been like, lots of people coming along to socialise, dance and have a drink, it's a shame we don't have anything like this in England now. Some of us left at 3.30 to go home (which was considered early) while others went on to a local club.
On Sunday morning I headed to La Boca with someone I had made contact with through Couchsurfing. La Boca is one of the poorer neighbourhoods and it is generally not advised for tourists to go alone. The person I went with was only really happy to wander around Caminito which is, unfortunately, very touristy. I did, however, get to see the brightly coloured houses, painted using the paints that were used to preserve the hulls of ships. Here, there was more tango put on especially for the tourists and, although it is still incredible to watch, I realised that I actually prefer the type of tango that I have seen at Milongas as it is more real, and has more feeling. I have gone from thinking that tango was an incredibly sexy dance (which it can be, if done as a performance) to realising that it is more a dance of companionship, danced for pure enjoyment.
In contrast to the showy dance in La Boca, that afternoon I headed to the traditional tango area of San Telmo, in the even more traditional location of Plaza Dorrego. On Sundays, the whole area turns into a huge market, and right in the centre, I stumbled upon what seemed to be a cross between a tango lesson and a Milonga. The people dancing were obviously tourists, but had learnt a selection of actual steps, so they could replicate some of the more experienced dancers. Feeling very jealous that I'd missed out on this more intensive tango class, I grabbed a leaflet and vowed to come back to Buenos Aires one day....
Monday 25 April 2011
What a difference a hostel makes...
Beautiful as Hostel Ostinatto was, it wasn´t massively friendly. The girls in my room were nice (although the friendliest one left the day after I arrived) but the atmosphere in general wasn't particularly welcoming. Not ideal when you're travelling alone. I had booked in for three nights, so made the best of it, but on Thursday I moved out and into Portal del Sur. Recommended as the best hostel in the city in the Argentina Lonely Planet, it's not even listed in the South America one. I probably should write to complain!
Anyway, within minutes of arriving I was chatting to various people, and being invited along to various things. Everyone was chatty and friendly and I felt much happier. This is what travelling is about. I think it helps that there are more lone travellers here, and also a slightly older crowd. I was slightly disappointed when I entered my room as it was very cramped. However, I have been the only one in there for my 4 night stay, so I've essentially had a private room.
That day I went out to see the march of the Mothers of the Missing with some people from the hostel then, after a stroll to Puerto Madero, we all went to change money (at the last minute before the bank holiday) and for tea and cakes - very English, even though I was the only English person! That night about 12 of us went out for dinner at Cafe Tenos (Tango Grill) for parilla (grilled meat). I had my second Argentinian steak and, even though it was well done, rather than medium as I had asked, it was still delicious. Of course, it was washed down with some Malbec from Mendoza.
There is much more to tell about Buenos Aires, particularly about the tango, but that will have to wait for another day as I want to go out and enjoy my final day in the city, not spend it sat at a computer!
Oh, sorry there are still no photos, I did start trying to upload some but it was painfully slow. I will try again in Paraguay - I'm headed there tonight on an 18 hour bus journey!
Anyway, within minutes of arriving I was chatting to various people, and being invited along to various things. Everyone was chatty and friendly and I felt much happier. This is what travelling is about. I think it helps that there are more lone travellers here, and also a slightly older crowd. I was slightly disappointed when I entered my room as it was very cramped. However, I have been the only one in there for my 4 night stay, so I've essentially had a private room.
That day I went out to see the march of the Mothers of the Missing with some people from the hostel then, after a stroll to Puerto Madero, we all went to change money (at the last minute before the bank holiday) and for tea and cakes - very English, even though I was the only English person! That night about 12 of us went out for dinner at Cafe Tenos (Tango Grill) for parilla (grilled meat). I had my second Argentinian steak and, even though it was well done, rather than medium as I had asked, it was still delicious. Of course, it was washed down with some Malbec from Mendoza.
There is much more to tell about Buenos Aires, particularly about the tango, but that will have to wait for another day as I want to go out and enjoy my final day in the city, not spend it sat at a computer!
Oh, sorry there are still no photos, I did start trying to upload some but it was painfully slow. I will try again in Paraguay - I'm headed there tonight on an 18 hour bus journey!
Tuesday 19 April 2011
It's not the place, it's the getting there that counts!
They say travelling is all about the journey, and what a journey I had...
When I boarded the plane, to my delight, I saw that my seat was next to a mother and her young child...and his very noisy video game! The game was soon switched off and mother and child stretched out to go to sleep. All well and good, except that the child was slightly too long for the two seats he lay across and it seemed that every time I dropped off to sleep he decided to stretch out his legs and kick me. In spite of this I did manage to doze through most of the flight (a good thing as the TV's weren't working), although I was taunted the whole time by two empty seats a couple of rows in front of me which I was not allowed to move into as they were chargeable 'comfort' seats!
After my fitful sleep I was very much looking forward to a cup of tea with my aeroplane breakfast....only to find my only options were green tea or camomile... anyone who knows me will understand that this wouldn't be a sufficient substitute at the best of times!
Rio de Janeiro airport is barely worth mentioning except I did manage to buy a cup of Earl Grey tea...which tasted of soap. Oh well.
The flight to BA was much more pleasant - aided by the fact the films were working and I was sat in a row with a selection of young, bearded, Argentinian men!
Having managed to cut my toe open on the airport trolley, and find my bus into the city, I arrived at Hostel Ostinatto. The hostel is in a beautiful old building, with fabulous high ceilings and french doors opening onto balconies for each room. I'm in a room with 5 other girls who all seem really nice. I'm up on the third floor, which I reached via a tiny 20's style lift
After a (cold) shower and a quick change, I had a walk around the block before meeting up with Louisa (Alice's sister) who was going to look after my case full of resources that I've brought with me for volunteering in Paraguay. Louisa and I walked the few blocks to her apartment, my case bouncing along the cobbles and uneven pavements. I am struck by how quiet the streets seem here. They are busy enough, but I think I was expecting something more like Vietnam where you risk your life everytime you cross the road! I had brought Louisa some of the English foods she had been craving and was rewarded with (a much longed for) cup of tea. PG Tips no less!
Louisa kindly took me on a walking tour of San Telmo, which I hope to replicate today now that I'm a little bit more awake, and then we went for dinner at a place just up the road from my hostel....I had steak and a glass (or two) of Malbec. Then, very untypically for Buenos Aires, I went to bed at 10.30. Welcome to Argentina!
When I boarded the plane, to my delight, I saw that my seat was next to a mother and her young child...and his very noisy video game! The game was soon switched off and mother and child stretched out to go to sleep. All well and good, except that the child was slightly too long for the two seats he lay across and it seemed that every time I dropped off to sleep he decided to stretch out his legs and kick me. In spite of this I did manage to doze through most of the flight (a good thing as the TV's weren't working), although I was taunted the whole time by two empty seats a couple of rows in front of me which I was not allowed to move into as they were chargeable 'comfort' seats!
After my fitful sleep I was very much looking forward to a cup of tea with my aeroplane breakfast....only to find my only options were green tea or camomile... anyone who knows me will understand that this wouldn't be a sufficient substitute at the best of times!
Rio de Janeiro airport is barely worth mentioning except I did manage to buy a cup of Earl Grey tea...which tasted of soap. Oh well.
The flight to BA was much more pleasant - aided by the fact the films were working and I was sat in a row with a selection of young, bearded, Argentinian men!
Having managed to cut my toe open on the airport trolley, and find my bus into the city, I arrived at Hostel Ostinatto. The hostel is in a beautiful old building, with fabulous high ceilings and french doors opening onto balconies for each room. I'm in a room with 5 other girls who all seem really nice. I'm up on the third floor, which I reached via a tiny 20's style lift
After a (cold) shower and a quick change, I had a walk around the block before meeting up with Louisa (Alice's sister) who was going to look after my case full of resources that I've brought with me for volunteering in Paraguay. Louisa and I walked the few blocks to her apartment, my case bouncing along the cobbles and uneven pavements. I am struck by how quiet the streets seem here. They are busy enough, but I think I was expecting something more like Vietnam where you risk your life everytime you cross the road! I had brought Louisa some of the English foods she had been craving and was rewarded with (a much longed for) cup of tea. PG Tips no less!
Louisa kindly took me on a walking tour of San Telmo, which I hope to replicate today now that I'm a little bit more awake, and then we went for dinner at a place just up the road from my hostel....I had steak and a glass (or two) of Malbec. Then, very untypically for Buenos Aires, I went to bed at 10.30. Welcome to Argentina!
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