Monday, 1 August 2011

Great Train Journeys (Not quite British Rail)

Most long distance bus journeys in South America cost a fraction of the price of similar journeys in England. This train journey was closer to the cost of a journey in the UK, but was definitely a worthwhile expense. If the service at home was equivalent to this, I'd be taking the train a lot more often!

I'd promised myself one epic train journey in South America so, even though I've pretty much run out of money, I splashed out on the Andean Explorer from Puno to Cuzco.... and it was worth every penny.





When I boarded the luxurious train I had to move seats a few times as there were groups who wanted to sit together and I was travelling alone. This worked out well for me as I ended up facing forwards, and with a great view.

After much horn honking, and chuckling over how excited the guys in front of me were about the train toilet (actually they had good reason to be), we slowly pulled out of the station and through Puno. Throughout the whole journey loads of kids were waving at the train (you would have thought it only ran once a month, not four times a week) and there were some incredible views.

Best toilet facilities in South America!





Shortly after we left the station, the train staff came round offering tea and coffee. This was certainly priced at British Rail prices, yet I still felt a bit guilty about ordering just hot water and using my own (Yorkshire Tea) tea bag! You'd think though, at the amount they charge for the train, they could include free tea and coffee. I settled down with my cuppa to browse the lunch menu and was amazed at the selection. This certainly was first class dining and I realised that the snacks I'd purchased for the journey were entirely unnecessary!


Although the views on the journey were beautiful, the amount of litter on the track side detracted from them a little. Our first stop was Juliaca where the train went through the middle of the market. Some of the stalls were right up against the track and stall holders were moving their stock and sunshades out of the way for the train to pass.





We were then all invited up to the bar and observation carriage for a welcome drink - my first Pisco Sour. This traditional Peruvian drink is made using Pisco, lime and egg white, and is surprisingly delicious! I spent some time hanging out of the observation carriage, with the wind in my hair, and chatting to the guys who were sat behind me. There was also folk music and traditional dancing in the bar, but I avoided this as it was a bit too touristy for my liking. When I walked past them later, the dancer was wearing an outfit that looked more suited to a gentleman's club than a traditional dance.







At about 11.30, the train staff started setting out cutlery for lunch. This was to be no plastic tray and cutlery affair.... My starter of Alpaca arrived, perfectly cooked (rare) with avacado and balsamic vinegar. Not bad for my first taste of Alpaca!


My main course was pork chops and Andean mashed potato, along with a complementary glass of wine. Again, this was delicious and I savoured every mouthful!



You really can't beat having lunch with views like these!

Finally, dessert was a huge slice of passion fruit moose! I really didn't have much room left, but managed to fit some of it in!


Shortly after this, we passed the train heading in the opposite direction. The bar also offered up a 'fashion show' to encourage people to buy ridiculously overpriced Alpaca goods...and amazingly they were falling for it. Mind you, I think most the people on the train were a lot more well-off than your average backpacker!



The journey continued with ever-changing views that kept me entertained and smiling the whole time. I was surprised that some people seemed to spend the entire time asleep, missing out on this amazing journey.


Our final stop was at a small market where local women were selling hand-knitted Alapca goods. I didn't buy anything, but couldn't resist taking a photo of a tiny baby bundled up under her mother's stall (although it cost me 1 sole!).


Following afternoon tea, we arrived in Cuzco in darkness. I eagerly got off the train as we were running late and someone from the orphanage was supposed to be picking me up. I stood there, however, whilst everyone else got picked up by their hotels. When I was the only one left, I asked someone if there was a phone box nearby.... There was a coin operated phone just on the corner, but I couldn't get it to work. Starting to panic a bit about being somewhere in Cuzco, in the dark, alone and with all my possessions, I was happy to see a security guard who helped me work the phone. I eventually got through to Jeremy, the coordinator, who told me that Arturo should be there to get me, but would be at a different exit. At the very same moment, another security guard came running over to ask if I was Beth Cox, and led me to Arturo at the other exit... safe at last!

Some more photos from the trip:










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